Pattern Making Process

Pattern Makers   Marker Making   Garment Construction   Cutting Fabric Process  Apparel Manufacturers   Manufacturing Terms   Fashion Terms   Fashion Design

Pattern making is a critical step in the fashion design and manufacturing process, as it involves creating templates that serve as guides for cutting fabric pieces and ultimately shaping the final garment. Here's an overview of the pattern making process for clothing, the tools involved, proper techniques, and some insights into footwear pattern making:

Clothing Pattern Making Process:

1. Design Concept: The pattern making process begins with the designer's concept. They sketch or visualize the design and take measurements for the desired fit.

2. Block Pattern: Pattern makers often start with a basic block pattern, also known as a sloper. This is a simple, well-fitted pattern that serves as the foundation for creating various garment styles.

3. Pattern Drafting: Pattern makers use the block pattern to draft the initial pattern for the specific garment design. They add or modify pattern pieces to accommodate design features like darts, pleats, and style lines.

4. Pattern Grading: Grading is the process of creating multiple sizes of a pattern, ensuring that the design maintains its proportions and fit across different sizes. Professional pattern makers need to be skilled in grading techniques.

5. Mock-Up (Muslin or Toile): Before cutting the actual fashion fabric, a mock-up, often made from muslin or toile fabric, is created. This mock-up allows for fitting and adjustments to be made without using the final fabric.

6. Fitting and Adjustments: Pattern makers work closely with designers and fit models to fine-tune the mock-up's fit. Adjustments are made to ensure the garment drapes and fits perfectly.

7. Final Pattern: Once the mock-up is perfected, the final pattern is created, typically made from durable paper or cardboard. This pattern is used for cutting the actual fabric pieces.

8. Cutting Fabric: The final pattern is placed on the fabric, and the fabric is cut according to the pattern pieces. Precision is essential to ensure that all pieces align correctly during assembly.

9. Sewing and Garment Construction: The cut fabric pieces are then sewn together according to the pattern's instructions. Skilled seamstresses or sewing machines are used for this process.

Tools Used for Clothing Pattern Making:

• Pattern Paper or Cardboard: Used to create the actual patterns.
• Drafting Tools: Including rulers, measuring tapes, and curves for accurate pattern drafting.
• Pattern Notcher: Used to mark notches on pattern pieces for alignment during sewing.
• Tracing Wheel: Used to transfer pattern markings onto the fabric.
• Muslin or Toile Fabric: Used for mock-ups and fittings.
• Pins and Weights: Used to secure pattern pieces and fabric during cutting and sewing.
• Scissors: For cutting patterns and fabric.
• Markers and Pencils: For marking pattern lines and notations.

Professional Pattern Making Techniques:

To excel as a professional pattern maker, it's essential to:

Understand Garment Construction: Have a deep understanding of how garments are constructed and how different fabrics behave.

Precision and Accuracy: Be extremely precise in pattern drafting, cutting, and sewing to ensure a perfect fit and quality construction.

Communication Skills: Collaborate effectively with designers, fit models, and production teams to bring designs to life.

Keep Up with Trends: Stay updated on industry trends and evolving pattern making technologies and techniques.

Footwear Pattern Making vs. Clothing Pattern Making:

Footwear pattern making is a related but distinct discipline. While both involve creating templates, the processes differ significantly due to the different nature of the products. Footwear pattern makers work with materials like leather and rubber, and they create patterns for shoe components like soles, uppers, and linings. The skills overlap in areas such as precision and understanding of fit but require specialized knowledge for each field.

Role of Software in Pattern Making:

Pattern makers increasingly use computer-aided design (CAD) software for pattern drafting and grading. These software tools offer greater efficiency, accuracy, and the ability to create digital patterns, making it easier to share and store patterns electronically.

Education for Pattern Making:

While a college education is not strictly necessary to become a pattern maker, formal training can provide valuable skills and knowledge. Many aspiring pattern makers attend fashion design or pattern making courses or programs at fashion schools or community colleges to gain expertise and stay competitive in the industry. Practical experience and an understanding of fashion trends and construction techniques are also crucial for success in this field.

You may also want to learn about tailors and seamstresses.