Before we explain the meaning of Irish linen, it might be a good idea to first know what linen is.
Linen is a type of cloth woven from the flax plant.
The short answer is that, "Irish linen is linen from Ireland".
Flax has been cultivated in Ireland for centuries. Irish nobleman dating back to the 16th century work tunics made of linen cloth. In the 17th century the fabric became known as one of Ireland's greatest industries. The market town of Lisburn Co. Antrim along with other towns in the Lagan and Bann Valleys became the heart of the linen industry.
Have you heard of Louis Crommelin?
Crommelin lived from 1652 to 1727. He established and later wrote about a model linen factory established in Lisburn in the late 1690's. He has by some been identified as the father of the Irish linen industry. Obviously additional improvements had been made to the manufacturing of textiles after his passing.
In Ireland the flax flower typically blossoms in mid summer. The flowering is known as the "wee blue blossom" in Ireland. The plant generally gets pulled in August.
In Ireland flax was usually pulled when the stems were still green. This allows for the production of fine flax but unfortunately the seed cannot be harvested. They often pulled portion of the crop and allowed the rest of the crop to continue growing so that they can later harvest for the seeds. Having seeds obviously was necessary for planting for the following year.
The process of breaking the long, dry flax plant down and separating the fibrous part of the plan from the step is known as scrutching. After that process the flax gets hackled. A hackling comb with long pins are brushed through the flax to remove the short fibers. What remains is the long, smooth flax which is known as line flax. The line flax is appropriate to spin into yarn. Spinning wheels are used to spin yarn.
Summary: Irish linen is the brand name given to linen produced in Ireland (including both the Republic of Ireland and Northern Ireland). Linen is cloth woven from, or yarn spun from flax fiber, which was grown in Ireland for many years before advanced agricultural methods and more suitable climate led to the concentration of quality flax cultivation in northern Europe. From around 1950 onwards, most flax fibres used in the production of Irish linen have been produced in northern Europe. However, linens woven in Ireland are still highly regarded, mainly used in niche luxury items. Flax is still the national flower of Northern Ireland.
What is linen hank?
A hank is a measurement of linen yarn. Learn more about the hank unit of measure.
What is the finest linen fabric construction?
Damask is the finest and most elegant type of linen cloth. It is often woven with intricate patterns and can be finished with a smooth sheen. The beetling process allows for the fine smooth sheen.
Throughout the eighteenth century, weaving in Ireland was done on hand looms. Often in a families home.
Long after the invention of the flying shuttle in 1733, most weavers in Ireland continued to throw the shuttle by hand. By the early nineteenth century most handloom weavers had already switched to the much more efficient (faster) flying shuttle method.
One of the most famous linen damask factories in Ireland was the workshop of William Coulson who lived1739-1801. His weaving company was in Lisburn, Co. Antrim.
You can learn more about Irish Linen from the Irish Linen Centre at the Lisburn Museum.
See a video on how flax is processed.
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You may want to also learn about kilts.