History of Soviet fashion:
Fashion in the Soviet Union largely followed general trends of
the Western world. However, the state's socialist ideology
consistently moderated and influenced these trends. In addition,
shortages of consumer goods meant that the general public did
not have ready access to pre-made fashion. The New
Economic Policy's authorization of private business allowed
Western fashion to enter the Soviet Union. However, Bolshevik
ideology opposed Western fashion consumption as an intrinsically
capitalist practice. Western fashion emphasized both economic
status and gender differences under a system that sought to
deemphasize both. In the early 1920s, Party-sanctioned
magazines like Rabotnitsa ("The Working Woman") and Krest'yanka
("The Peasant Woman") offered discourse on fashion. Covers
displayed women in plain work clothes, yet the magazines often
contained advertisements for private companies selling stylish
attire. By 1927, however, the magazines' message was
consistent: women should be judged on their capability for work,
not their appearance. Fashion, as a beauty aid, was therefore
bourgeois and detrimental to socialist society.
Khrushchev Era (1950s-1960s) The Khrushchev Thaw brought a
greater representation of Western fashion to domestic media.
Journalists were sent abroad to report on the latest
international fashion trends. However, state-owned fashion
institutions and magazines moderated these trends for Soviet
audiences. Fashion "crazes" were rejected in favor of classic,
long-running styles. In addition, moderation and modesty
were stressed.
Brezhnev Era (1970s-1980s) By the end of the 1960s, Soviet
fashion institutions, like the centralized fashion bureau ODMO
(All-union House of Prototypes), were embracing increasingly
novel Western trends. At the same time, there was still a
need to establish distinctively Soviet fashions. "Space
fashion," for example, fit directly into state ideology by
glorifying a triumph of Soviet science.
Gorbachev Era (1980s) Under perestroika, varied fashion became
acceptable. In 1987, Gorbachev allowed a Russian edition of
Burda Fashion magazine to be produced and distributed.[34] The
next year, Zhurnal Mod began a new run as the first "proper"
fashion magazine in the Soviet Union. In content, it was
virtually indistinguishable from a Western fashion magazine,
although ODMO provided all the styles.
Following the dissolution of the Soviet Union in 1991, fifteen
independent republics emerged from the USSR: Russia, Ukraine,
Belarus, Kazakhstan, Uzbekistan, Armenia, Azerbaijan, Estonia,
Georgia, Kyrgyzstan, Latvia, Lithuania, Moldova, Tajikistan,
Turkmenistan; as the largest, most populous, and most
economically developed republic, the Russian SFSR reconstituted
itself as the Russian Federation and is recognized as the
continuing legal personality and sole successor state of the
Soviet Union.
Times have obviously changed in Russia and men and women are
more free to wear clothing they enjoy. The 2010's style
has been defined by a revival of austerity-era period pieces,
hipster and alternative fashions, 1980s-inspired neon colors,
and from 2012 onwards, unisex early 1990s style elements
influenced by grunge and skater fashions. We look forward
to seeing more great fashion brands, and designers emerge from
Russia.