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dobby a fabric made with a dobby, namely a loom with an attachment for weaving small figures.

doeskin  wool and also rayon.   Very smooth, lustrous surface made with a slight short nap very close and compact weave to look like fine leather.  Weave not visible because of napping.  Very high quality wool used.  Needs care in handling.  Medium weight.  Women's suits and coats, and also in a lighter weight for dresses. Sportswear and riding habits for both men and women. Trousers and waistcoats for men.

dog collar [Slang] clerical collar; a wide flexible snug-fitting necklace

dolman sleeve is a full sleeve that is very wide at the armhole and narrow at the wrist.  This type of sleeve tends to draw attention to the shoulder and arm.

domestics Term used to refer to bedding (sheets, comforters etc), towels, linens and other "soft goods". Term might have a different meaning company to company so always inquire definition before purchasing.  (definition provided by Robert Cyr at RLC Trading)

domett flannel  Also spelled domet.     Plain or twill weave; cotton.  Generally made in white.  Has a longer nap than on flannelette.  Soft filling yarns of medium or light weight are used to obtain the nap.  The term domett is interchangeable with "outing flannel" but it is only made in a plain weave. Both are soft and fleecy and won't irritate the skin.  Any sizing or starching must be removed before using.   Outing flannel is also piece-dyed and some printed and produced in a spun rayon also.  Mostly used for infants wear, interlinings, polished cloths.

domino a long loose hooded cloak usually worn with a half mask as a masquerade costume; a half mask worn over the eyes with a masquerade costume

donegal  wool - also in rayons and cottons.  Mostly plain weave but some in twill.  Originally a homespun woven by the peasants in Donegal, Ireland.  A rough and ready fabric that stands much hard wear.  yarns are coarse with thick slubs and colored nubs.  Now made in other places as well - particularly England.

donkey jacket  [British] a jacket of heavy material worn especially by laborers

d'Orsay type of shoe.  a 19th century Frenchman created this style with a cutaway in-step that reveals the arch of the foot.

dotted Swiss  plain weave cotton for ground with a swivel, lappet or flocked dot.  A sheer light muslin ornamented with evenly spaced raised dots.  Placed regularly or irregularly on a semi-sheer usually crisp fabric which may or may not be permanent.  First made on hand looms in Switzerland.   It is made generally in 32" widths.  The lappet is the most permanent. When hand woven with a swivel attachment the dots are tied in by hand on the back of the cloth. The ground fabric is usually a voil or a lawn.  Dots could be a single color or multicolored.

double-face Satin  yarn woven with two warps and one filling, to simulate a double satin construction.  Has satin on both sides.   Cotton filling is often used in cheaper qualities.

double knit  a knitted fabric (cotton, wool, worsted, silk, rayon, and synthetics) made with a double set of needles to produce a double thickness of fabric with each thickness joined by interlocking stitches.  An article of clothing made of double knit fabric, namely a fabric knitted to produce a double thickness.  A two faced cloth, either face may be utilized as the rigth side.  The fabric originated in Milan and Florence.  Can be stabilized for shrinkage control and dry cleans satisfactorily.

doublet a man's close-fitting jacket worn in Europe especially during the Renaissance

doupion (douppioni)    silk yarns made from the cocoon of two silk worms that have nested toghether.   In spinning, the double strand is not separated so the yarn is uneven and irregular with a large diameter in places.  fabric is of silk made in a plain weave.  The fabric is very irregular and shows many slubs; seems to be made in a hit and miss manner.   It is imitated in rayon and some synthetics, and one such fabtic is called "Cupioni".  Dupion yarns also used in shantung, pongee. Tailors very well.

drop needle  a knit fabric characterized by a vertical lines within the cloth. This knit is manufactured by "dropping" a needle from the knitting cylinder.

dunce cap  a conical cap formerly used as a punishment for slow learners at school [Also called, dunce's cap]

dungaree clothes made usually of blue denim

duvetyn(e) good quality wool.    If made in cotton, is usually called suede cloth.  Close weave, brushed, singed, and sheared to conceal the weave.  Has a smooth plush appearance resembleing a compact velvet.  Similar to wool broadcloth but heavier and thicker.  Has a good draping quality, soft and wears well if looked after.  Spots easily and care must be taken when handling it. Back is often slightly napped also.  Name derived from the French word "duvet" meaning "down".  Used a great deal in the millinery trade.

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